Levi’s jeans are a staple in the history of American fashion. After almost 80 years of association with cowboys and the western working class, they started to gain mainstream popularity during the 1930s and 40s, and in the 1950s Levi’s brand jeans became a staple for youth subcultures such as greasers, rockers, and hippies. Vintage Levi’s jeans from pre-2000, particularly Levi’s 501s, are becoming more coveted by the day.
With so many changes in styles over the years, it can be tricky to determine whether or not a pair is authentic vintage, and the year it was made. Below we have put together this guide with some of the major differences in Levi’s design elements to help identify when yours are from.
Selvedge vs. Modern outseam stitching
Selvedge stitch: If the jeans have a selvedge edge finish inside the outseam, that means they were made before 1986, which is when that style of stitching was officially discontinued by the brand. However, the majority of selvedge Levi's jeans are pre 1970. Be careful though, because in recent years, due to the popularity of vintage denim, Levi's have reintroduced selvedge finishing on some items.
Overlock stitch: If the jeans are not selvedge and they have an orange overlock stitch outseam, they were likely made between 1981-1984. If they have a white overlock stitch outseam, they were likely made between 1985-1993.
Big “E” Red Tab
If the red tab on the back pocket has a capital “E” “LEVI”S”, that means they were made before 1971.
Care Label
If there are washing instructions printed on the pocket bag, they were made between 1968-1971.
If there is a paper care label inside, they were made after 1970.
If the care label has a red batwing Levi’s logo, they were made after 1986.
If the care label says “care on reverse”, they were made before 1992.
Single lock vs double lock back pocket stitch
If they have two lines of single lock stitching along the top of the back pocket (check the inside of the stitching by peeking into the pocket), they were made before 1978.
If they have two lines of double lock stitching there, they were made after 1978.
Two Horse brand patch
If the patch on the back of waist says “every garment guaranteed” across the bottom of the logo, they were made before 1963.
If the patch is made of leather, they were made before 1954.
V Stitch
If there is a single needle “V” stitch at the inside of the waistband by the button, they were made before 1970.
If the inside of waistband doesn’t have this and instead has chain-stitching along the top and bottom, it is from 1970 or later.
Back belt loop
If the back belt loop is slightly off-center, they were made between 1947-1965.
Lemon yellow vs orange thread
If there is yellow thread on any part of the jeans, they were made mid-1970s or earlier.
Back pocket rivets
If there are exposed rivets on the back pockets, they were made pre-1937.
If there are concealed rivets on the back pockets (only visible from the inside), they were made between 1937-1964.
If there are no back pocket rivets, they were made after 1964.
Waist button stamps
If there is a 3-digit number stamped on the back of the waist button, they were likely made between the 1980s-2002 (the three digit number refers to a factory code).
If there is a single stamped digit, they are likely mid-1970s or earlier.
If the digit is an underlined 6, they are likely from the 1970s.
501XX lot number
Pre-1968, the lot number on the Two Horse brand tag on the back of waist was ‘501XX.’
Between 1968-1987 the lot number simply read ‘501’.
‘501 xx’ was reintroduced in1986, now with a lowercase xx and a space in between.
If the lot number on the back tag is red, they were made between 1986-1993. Starting in 1991, it again was written as ‘501XX’.
Made in USA
The last Levi’s production facility in the US closed in 2002, so any Levi’s jeans produced after then were made overseas.
Levi's Tab Guide
The red tab on the back packet first appears in 1936, written as “LEVI’S” with a capital E.
In 1971, this was changed to a lowercase e ("LeVI'S").
Sometimes there will be a blank red tab that just has the registered “r”, without the word Levi's. These are still authentic Levi’s - some are just intentionally made with the plain red tab.
Orange tab - introduced in the 1960s, for more trendy styles like bell bottom jeans, and other jeans aimed at younger customers.
Silver tab- Introcued in 1988, Silver Tab jeans were defined by baggy fits and a grunge aesthetic, and continued through the 90s.